In its strategic position on the Poggio alle Mura hill, it overlooks the valleys of Orcia and Ombrone, as well as the communication routes between Siena, Monte Amiata, and Maremma. From up there, it dominates the entire valley. We are about twenty kilometers from Montalcino, the land of the renowned Brunello. The road leading up the hill is flanked by vineyards, woods, olive trees, and as we approach, the footsteps of time become more palpable. Written records mention Castello Poggio alle Mura for the first time only in 1377, but some artifacts found during the recent restoration suggest its existence in Etruscan times. Those fortunate enough to inhabit this fortress over an extended period were the Placidi Counts, Sienese nobles who fought in service to Siena against Florence. They were rewarded for their services during the 15th century. There were times when they were expelled, but they returned in 1529 and remained until 1949 when the property was acquired by Giovanni Mastropaolo, an Italian entrepreneur who had amassed wealth in Venezuela. Already during the imperial dynasty of the Habsburg-Lorraine (first half of the 18th century), the castle had definitively transformed into a farm.
Once you arrive, you will see that the castle, of more or less regular square shape, is organized around a courtyard: three sides are occupied by various buildings, and the fourth is enclosed by a curtain wall. The courtyard of honor is a splendid example of Renaissance architecture with low arches on octagonal pillars, a large fireplace, sail vaults, decorated lunettes, and a Medici coat of arms dating back to the 16th century, after the fall of Montalcino.
The story
The current fame of the castle, which transformed from Poggio alle Mura to Banfi, is attributed to the purchase by the American brothers John and Harry Mariani in 1983. It was thus restored to its ancient splendor through patient and competent restoration and conservation efforts. You might wonder why Banfi, given that the owners’ surname is Mariani (now belonging specifically to Cristina Mariani-May). Here’s the story: the father of the two brothers, Giovanni, had an aunt who was a wine expert named Teodolinda Banfi. In her honor, he founded Banfi Vintners, a leading company in the importation of Italian and French wines to the USA. Given the success associated with that surname, it was only natural to also dedicate it to the new venture in Italy, where they aimed to fulfill the dream of ‘the greatest project ever realized in the production of quality wines in Italy.’
From the castle, your gaze can wander over 2,830 hectares, of which 850 are dedicated to vineyards. A marvel. But let’s step inside, into the western wing, to visit the glass museum spanning from antiquity to the present day. The entire journey, accompanied by educational panels, focuses particularly on the creation of wine bottles. How could one forget some examples of modern artistic bottles, crafted by renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalì, and Jean Cocteau?
Beneath the vaults of the old cellars of the castle, where once rested the large wooden barrels used for aging Brunello di Montalcino, lies Taverna Banfi, a typical Tuscan inn. The other restaurant, Sala dei Grappoli, awarded one Michelin star, is situated in the shade of the historic castle. Explore the wine shop, recreating the atmosphere of a Tuscan store, with terracotta floors, furniture, and wooden beams, where you can purchase estate wines and other local gastronomic and artisanal products. The ancient stone village, born in the 1700s in the shadow of the walls and towers of Castello Poggio alle Mura, to house the farmers working for the noble owners, now hosts a high-level accommodation facility, part of the Relais & Châteaux network. A visit to Castello Banfi is truly worth the journey!
ph credits Alexander Brookshaw
